pullulan in cosmetic skin care products
Pullulan (pullulan polysaccharide) is included in the "Catalogue of Cosmetic Raw Materials Used", because of its industrial production
It is mainly fermented by Aureobasidium pullulans, so it is named Pullulanase polysaccharide. Pullulan is made from Portuguese
A linear homopolysaccharide composed of glucose residues, glucose is linked by α-1,4-glycosidic bonds to form maltotriose, malt
The trisaccharides are linked by α-(1→6) glycosidic bonds to form high-molecular pullulan [1]. Pullulan is water-soluble,
Edible, film-forming, gas barrier properties [2], so in the pharmaceutical industry as an adhesive, capsule material, pullulan
Polysaccharides have been used as food additives in Japan for more than 20 years, and pullulan has been approved by the US Pharmacopoeia and the Japanese
Included in this Pharmacopoeia. Widely used in the pharmaceutical industry, food industry, cosmetics, health care products. Prulando
Sugar is a biological polysaccharide, because the polysaccharide has good water solubility, dispersibility, film-forming, hygroscopicity and non-toxicity
Harmful, can be used as a viscous filler in cosmetics: not only the effect is almost the same as hyaluronic acid, but also
In terms of price, it is far cheaper than hyaluronic acid used in cosmetics. It is now widely used in cosmetics,
Promotes cell regeneration and belongs to natural healthy cosmetic raw materials.
1. Properties of Pullulan
1.1 Adhesion
Compared with general polysaccharides, pullulan has obvious adhesion properties and is easy to adhere to the skin surface. because of the
Polysaccharides have good water solubility, dispersibility, film-forming properties, hygroscopicity and non-toxicity, and can be used in cosmetics.
viscous filler.
1.2 Non-toxicity and safety According to the results of the acute, subacute and chronic toxicity tests and variability test results of pullulan polysaccharide, even pullulan
When the dosage of orchidan reaches the threshold of LD50 (semi-lethal dose) of 15g/kg, pullulan will not induce
It can cause any biological toxicity and abnormal state, so it is very safe to use in cosmetics.
1.3 Stability
The molecule of pullulan has a linear structure, so compared with other polysaccharides, the aqueous solution of pullulan is viscous
Low, it is not easy to form colloid, and it is a neutral solution with strong adhesion. Pullulan has good solubility in cold water
It can be dissolved quickly, and the solution is stable for a long time, no "aging" phenomenon, not easily affected by pH value or various salts
influences. The glycosidic bond of pullulan is hydrolyzed under the action of strong acid heating or pullulanase.
Physical and chemical properties are stable. The self-viscosity properties of pullulan have been studied: its aqueous solution is at 20-70 ℃, pH
Under the conditions of 1-12, the polysaccharide molecular conformation was stable, and the specific concentration viscosity remained basically unchanged; the addition of different metal ions
Addition can increase the specific viscosity to varying degrees [1]. This facilitates use in different cosmetic formulations and has a very good
Compatibility. Pullulan can synergize with other polymer materials, such as carrageenan, starch and gelatin;
Pullulan can improve the gel strength and water holding capacity of carrageenan, while increasing the gel temperature and melting
temperature [3].
1.4 Lubricity
Pullulan is a Newtonian fluid with excellent lubricity despite its low viscosity. It is used in cosmetics.
Use, with a smooth skin feel [4].
1.5 Film-forming properties
Pullulan polysaccharide film has lower air permeability than other polymer films, and oxygen, nitrogen, carbon dioxide, etc. are almost completely
Can not pass, but has greater moisture permeability. Therefore, the pullulan film has both anti-oxidation, isolation
It has excellent properties such as static electricity, dust and moisturizing, and is suitable for use in cosmetics to protect the skin from external damage. The film also has a certain tensile strength, which can stretch the skin and remove wrinkles when applied in the cream.
significant effect. The addition amount of pullulan in the cosmetic film-forming component is 3~15%.
Removal, good cleaning, can effectively remove dead cells on the skin surface and deeply clean the skin.
2. Product Features
2.1 Green, natural and safe - no animal ingredients, no zoonotic infectious diseases such as mad cow disease and foot-and-mouth disease
hidden worries, in line with the needs of special cultural and religious beliefs;
2.2 Low oxygen permeability, easy to store - the oxygen permeability is 1/300 of that of hypromellose capsules, gelatin capsules
1/8 of , which can protect the contents of the capsule from oxidation and prolong the storage period;
2.3 Safe and reliable quality - no animal protein and fat, not easy to breed microorganisms, no need to add any chemical
Chemical sterilization, safe and reliable quality;
2.4 Elegant appearance - The appearance is crystal clear and more easily accepted by consumers.
3. Relevant regulations
In 2014, the State Food and Drug Administration issued the "Catalogue on the Names of Cosmetic Raw Materials that Have Been Used".
The Announcement of the Recorded, CTFA and China Fragrance Association's 2010 edition of "International Standard for Cosmetic Raw Materials Chinese Names"
"The Catalogue" uses pullulan as a cosmetic raw material, and there is no report of its unsafe external use; pullulan
Sugar can be used as a food additive in my country.
4. Properties and applications of pullulan
4.1 Cosmetic Application Field of Pullulan
(1) Emulsion: high viscosity, solution stability, non-toxicity and semipermeable membrane forming ability
(2) Powder: covering ability, adsorption ability and adhesive force
(3) Rouge: odorless, tasteless, non-toxic, highly water-soluble and adhesive
5) Mask: film-forming, adsorption, water retention, film tension after drying
(6) Shampoo: foaming ability
(7) Make-up water/hair dye: high film-forming strength, hair styling ability, foaming effect
(8) Toothpaste: foaming, high viscosity, non-toxic and storage stability
4.2. Precautions for use
1. The self-viscosity properties of pullulan have been studied: its aqueous solution is 20-70 ℃, pH 1-12 conditions,
The molecular conformation of polysaccharide is stable, and the specific viscosity remains basically unchanged; the addition of different metal ions can increase the concentration to varying degrees.
Addition viscosity.
2. The mixed moisturizing ingredients composed of pullulan, trehalose and glycerol glucoside have excellent continuous moisturizing
Effect; can be made into essence, sheet mask, cream, etc. according to demand; can not add preservatives and essence to meet allergies
Muscle needs.
3. By adjusting the ratio of trehalose and pullulan, a transparent paste toothpaste can be made to improve the product
The appearance of the product; the consistency and foam volume of the product are low, which can bring the user a good sensory and experience;
4. The compounding of pullulan and trehalose in a certain proportion can synergistically reduce the toxicity of toothpaste to oral cells.
Thereby reducing the irritation of toothpaste to the oral mucosa [5].
5. Pullulan can significantly reduce the irritation of the formula, while chitosan oligosaccharide has no such effect.
6. Pullulan has a certain influence on the foaming performance of shower gel, and pullulan can inhibit the foaming of the system.
effect. When the chitosan oligosaccharide is added to the shower gel, the foaming performance is excellent [6].
7. The formula is well designed and the thermal stability of the sample is good, but when the order of adding some raw materials is changed, there may be delamination, turbidity, and even precipitation under high temperature and low temperature conditions. It shows that the reasonable order of material addition has a corresponding impact on the stability of the product.
references:
[1] Teng Lirong , Hong Shuisheng , Meng Qingfan , etc. Viscosity of Pullulan Polysaccharide
Quality Research[J].,2003,24(10):32-35.
[2] Sheng Long. Research on key influencing factors and mechanism of pullulan polysaccharide biosynthesis [D]. Wuxi: Jiangnan University
Learning , 2015.
[3] Liu Shaoying, Meng Xiangjing, Zhao Wengang, etc. The effect of pullulan polysaccharide on the rheological properties of toothpaste [J]. Food
and Drugs, 2016, 18(6): 407.
[4] Zhang Jinjin. A self-thickening pearl lotion and its preparation method. CN
107485598 B,2019,09,27.
[5] Lin Chuangyou. A kind of children's toothpaste and preparation method thereof. CN 108652999 B, 2019,03,01.
[6] Lin Changgui. A transparent shower gel for infants and a preparation method thereof. CN 109718123 B,
2020,04,03
